Jatz with Cheese and Lychee Relish

Barely a recipe, and the one we eat more of than anything else. Cracker, cheese, relish, done.

This is the snack our family actually eats, and it is worth writing down properly because the details make a real difference — the cheese thicker than you think, the relish on top rather than underneath, and the whole thing assembled at the last minute. Salt, fat and acid in three bites of assembly.

Method

1. Cut the cheese into squares roughly the size of the cracker, about 5 mm thick. Thin cheese disappears under the relish — you want to taste it as its own layer.

2. Take the cheese out of the fridge 20 minutes before you serve. Cold cheddar tastes of almost nothing.

3. Lay the crackers out on a board or platter, not touching.

4. Sit a slice of cheese on each, then add a torn piece of ham if you are using it.

5. Spoon about a teaspoon of relish on top of the cheese, not underneath. Relish against the cracker turns it soft within minutes.

6. Finish with cracked pepper and chives, and take them to the table straight away.

Tips

• Assemble at the last minute. Ten minutes is fine, half an hour and the crackers have gone.

• Set out the components and let people build their own — it keeps the crackers crisp and it is half the fun.

• Vintage cheddar, blue cheese or a firm goat's cheese all work. So does cream cheese if you want something softer.